By Stuart Dyer
1960s green glass beaded bib necklace by Coppola e Toppo
“Accessories are extremely important because they reveal the personality of a woman”.
-Lyda Toppo
Founded in Milan, Italy in 1948 by the brother-sister duo of Lyda Toppo and Bruno Coppola, Coppola e Toppo was a jewelry company best known for its elaborately beaded, bold and colorful designs. An Italian success story, the company designed jewelry for some of the most iconic fashion houses of its time including couturiers Christian Dior, Schiaparelli, Valentino and Balmain. In the United States Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and other high-end stores sold the Coppola e Toppo jewelry line.
Ivana Bastianello wearing strands of coral beads by Coppola e Toppo in Italian Vogue, 1969
Lyda Toppo was the designer of the duo. She was born in Venice in 1915. After World War II, following her graduation from the Academy of Fine Arts in Venice, she began her fashion career by working for a tailoring house in Milan. In 1946, she married Ferruccio Toppo. Two years later, she founded Coppola e Toppo with her brother Bruno to pursue her true passion – jewelry.
1960s Coppola e Toppo Blue Ombre Beaded Necklace and Earrings
Coppola e Toppo made unconventional statement jewelry that integrated crystal beads in bold and bright colors with materials from various parts of Italy; glass beads from Murano, crystals and pearls from Venice and coral from Naples.
Bugle beaded parure made for Valentino by Coppola e Toppo in 1967
Beads were Coppola e Toppo’s specialty, and they were successful in elevating this jewelry genre to couture status. The author, Ginger Moro said, “They probably did more for the glass industry of Murano and Bohemia, and crystal from Austria than any other Italian designer of the period.”
1960s Coppola e Toppo necklace and earrings set
Lyda wanted to create jewelry that provided an alternative to more traditional jewelry which she thought was ordinary and boring. She said, “There was a need for more colorful jewelry. More visible, more modern, definitely more personal.” And she strove to create pieces that would amuse and serve as an alternative.
Cover of May 1948 Paris Vogue
In 1948 Lyda had a very lucky breakthrough when she took her jewelry collection to the offices of Vogue in Paris. There she was able to meet with the editor of the magazine who immediately took a liking to her designs. It just so happened that the magazine was in the midst of photographing a story on fashion jewelry for its May 1948 issue. The editor made the decision on the spot to include Lyda’s pieces in the issue. This proved to be a significant piece of publicity for the Italian brand and lead to an introduction to top couturiers such as Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Balmain, Christian Dior and notably Schiaparelli. The Italian fashion designer, Elsa Schiaparelli loved Coppola e Toppo’s designs. She commissioned them to create a collection for Schiaparelli using coral and jet beads and named the collection ‘Bijoux Voyagers’.
Coppola e Toppo necklace for Elsa Schiaparelli c. 1950
Following the Schiaparelli collaboration, other designers such as Valentino followed suit with their own commissions. Christian Dior and Balenciaga purchased numerous pieces from Coppola e Toppo to adorn the models on their runways and to be sold in their retail spaces. Many other clients and customers would soon follow.
1961 cover of Novita Magazine, featuring a Coppola e Toppo blue and green crystal necklace and a box by Piero Fornasetti
It was the 1960s, however, which proved to be the biggest turning point for Coppola e Toppo. This was a time that welcomed freedom of expression and had a fascination with cultures around the world. This resulted in an era that embraced vibrant jewelry designs with global influences and brightly colored gems. Some of Coppola e Toppo’s best jewelry was produced during this period. Including pieces that were made for Emilio Pucci – a label that also embraced freedom of expression and vibrant colors. Lyda referred to Pucci as the Italian Chanel. The collaboration was a very close one. Each piece Lyda designed for Pucci was expressly created to repeat the hues in the Pucci prints and to coordinate with the neckline and the cut of specific garments.
Necklace by Coppola e Toppo for Emilio Pucci, Spring/Summer 1955
Fashionistas and celebrities of the time loved Coppola e Toppo jewelry. It Could be seen on Marilyn Monroe, Maria Callas and Jackie Kennedy Onassis who was also often seen carrying a beaded purse designed by Coppola e Toppa. Coppola e Toppo did not limit their designs to jewelry. They designed beaded accessories like purses, belts, bikinis, headpieces, bolero jackets and shoes.
1960s Emilio Pucci ensemble worn with a gem-encrusted skullcap and sandals by Coppola e Toppo
After Lyda’s death in 1986, the Italian fashion journalist Maria Pezzi wrote of Lyda, “She had a total sense of fashion and exceptional aesthetic taste. Hers was an artisanal work by now long gone… It is certain that Italian fashion, from the beginning based on imagination, risk, and personality, found in Lyda a great ambassador.”
Ivana Bastianello wearing jewelry by Coppola e Toppo for Valentino in Italian Vogue, 1969
In 2020, Pietro Paolo Longhitano and Rossella Jardini announced that they would be relaunching the Coppola e Toppo line. The relaunch was somewhat delayed by covid but still moved forward. Longhitano and Jardini are recreating pieces from Coppola e Toppo’s vast heritage archives as well as creating new pieces using the traditional techniques employed by Lyda.
In July 2024 Sharon Stone was seen wearing jewelry from the new collection at the 70th Taormina Film Festival in Sicily. Indeed it seems that Coppola e Toppo’s legacy will live on!
Stuart Dyer is the owner of Ladybug Vintage
Follow @ladybugvintage on Instagram
