By Aimée Laberge
In Medieval France, way before the metric system, an inch was a pouce, a thumb; a foot was a pied; and the hand span an empan. The body was the only measure available and the most essential tool to build cathedrals reaching sky high was a simple rope with 13 knots… How was it possible to create vaults, voussoirs, and naves, all the complex and exquisite architectural details of Romanesque architecture, with so little?
This is what Christopher Kelly explained to us at an event organized by the French Heritage Society held at Volo restaurant’s chic all-season patio in Roscoe Village in November.
The fundraising evening would contribute to restoring the oldest part of the Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine in the village of Vézelay, France, a two hours and half hour drive from Paris. The FHS Chicago- Midwest Chapter campaign, led by Lisa Kahn and her team, was launched on Giving Tuesday and keeps going through December.
Kat Beaulieu, Stephanie Sack and Lisa Kahn at Volo Restaurant
Restoration of the Basilica’s Nave
It’s while cruising on a barge in northern Burgundy in May 2025 that we were welcomed by Christopher during our visit to Vézelay, one of the most beautiful villages of France. Built on a hill and surrounded by meadows and fields dotted with sheep, it is visible from afar and part of a landscape unchanged for a thousand years. Our first stop, midway up the main street, was at the Maison du Visiteur where Christopher shared with us the history behind the making of the Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine.
View from the Eternal Hill
Kevin Tibbles and Aimée Laberge in Vézelay
A UNESCO World Heritage site, Vezelay’s “eternal hill” was at the very heart of Christianity starting in the 9th century, when the Benedictine abbey acquired the relics of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. Relics were star attractions in the Middle Ages and pilgrims from all over Europe stopped in Vézelay on their way to Santiago de Compostela. It is here that St Bernard preached for the Second Crusade before King Louis VII and Queen Eleanor; that Richard Coeur de Lion left for the Third Crusade; and that Francis of Assisi chose to found the first Franciscan establishment on French soil.
Mary Magdalen
The Facade of Basilica Saint Mary Magdalen
Name dropping aside, what is even more awe-inspiring than Vézelay’s past is the impression one gets upon reaching the top of the hill. On a sunny day, the facade of white stone is almost blinding. Above the portal, just before entering, is the famous “Mission of the Apostles” tympanum, one of the greatest masterpieces of Romanesque sculpture in France. And then you slip inside.
Basilica, Light and Voussoirs
Time stops. You are surrounded by pale stone columns rising effortlessly to dizzying heights before opening up in immense vaults. The scale makes you feel insignificant. Sounds are amplified, even your own heartbeat. Sunlight flows in since there is no stained glass but long narrow windows punctuating the nave. On a closer look, you see that each column is crowned by a sculpted châpiteau telling a different story with angels, horses, fantastic beasts, fearsome warriors and so many swords…
Châpiteaux, Angels and Beasts
With all the attention on Notre-Dame de Paris’ fire and reconstruction, it’s easy to forget how rich France’s architectural patrimoine is, with more than ten places of worship listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites.
A Basilica of Light
But back in Chicago, to Christopher Kelly is kindly explaining to me the difference between a cathedral and a basilica: each diocese has a cathedral, housing the bishops’ “cathedra”, or chair, whereas a basilica is an honorary title granted by the Pope for its historical importance, architectural significance, or role in worship.
Christopher also explained how the Basilica Saint Mary Magdalen, besides being a masterpiece of Burgundian Romanesque art and architecture, was built not only with stones but also with light in mind. At winter and summer solstice, patterns of light and shadow never seen during the year suddenly appear, revealing the builders’ sophisticated understanding of the solar system.
Basilica of Light
The 13-knot rope
And now, finally. Christopher is ready to demonstrate the mysteries of the simple rope with thirteen knots the masons used to build cathedrals as high as Chicago’s first skyscraper.
Each of the twelve segments between the knots are a hand span, or empan, meaning the distance between the tip of the thumb and the little finger on a stretched out hand. With a helper, Christopher starts drawing triangles in space…
Volo, Christopher Kelly, Triangle
Count 5 knots, fold, 5 more knots, fold, and close with 2 knots, and you have a steep, or Isoceles, triangle. For a bridge (equilateral) triangle, just use 4-4-4 spaces. But the most useful is the Pythagorean triangle, its 90 degree angle essential to square walls with foundations. Join 3 spaces, 4 spaces and 5 spaces… et voilà!
Volo, Crhistopher Kelly, Grand Triangle
Camino de Santiago, Way of Saint-James
A little aside about past and present pilgrimages. Vezelay is 1400 km from Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
Way of Saint James Pilgrimage
If medieval pilgrims hoped to encounter the divine on their journey, one step at a time, what are nowadays pilgrims looking for – besides blisters and excellent charcuterie? I reached out to Paul Krauss, a long time member of the Alliance Francaise de Chicago Board of Directors who walked 300 km of the Road to Compostelle over 3 visits.
“Why do it? Some young ones go for exercise, and whatever else young folks do, but especially in today’s contentious world it is a spirit of togetherness that passes all ages, nationalities and ideologies. It gives one a time of great reflection, spiritual or otherwise. Especially at the end of the 200 km we did, away from the Pamplona autoroutes, everyone knows and approves of your journey – all locals help the peregrinos.”
And this tip from Paul on how to enjoy the journey even more if you have reached a certain age:
“I learned about it when living in Portugal where my Spanish Partner in Madrid had been born in Santiago and did a part every year. He showed me how 70 year olds do it – not in the hostels with kids but in the state owned Paradores, often converted buildings into hotels.”
A spiritual adventure awaits, either by walking up the “eternal hill” in Vézelay, or retracing the steps of medieval pilgrims along some of the 1,400 kilometers to Compostelle…
More information:
To help safeguard the Basilica Saint Mary Magdalen in Vézelay, you can give by going to: https://frenchheritagesociety.org/projects/basilique-de-vezelayyonne-france/
By giving through FHS, Americans may claim the donation as a charitable giving deduction on their taxes.
To learn about the French Heritage Society Chicago Chapter, contact Lisa Kahn fhschicago@frenchheritagesociety.org
Founded by the Présence à Vézelay association, the Maison du Visiteur is a dedicated space offering introductory and educational content prior to tours. Christopher Kelly has been a heritage guide at Vézelay since 2009. For him, Romanesque symbolism, architecture and sculpture are rich sources of teaching for his contemporaries.
Slow travel is the next best thing to walking, and barge cruises along French rivers is a great way to visit many of the châteaux and sites restored by the French Heritage Society. Barge Lady Cruises is a Chicago-based and family owned company specialized in luxury European cruises.
Want to brush up your French before your next trip to Paris, Montreal or Dakar? The Alliance Francaise de Chicago is there for you!
Quebec born and bred, Aimée Laberge has been promoting French and Francophone cultures for 15 years in her role as Director of Programs at the Alliance Francaise de Chicago until recently. Aimée Laberge is a Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres.
Photos credits: Aimée Laberge, Lisa Kahn and Christopher Kelly
