By Sophie Bross
Jason Chan, legendary Chicago restaurateur, opened Gavroche, a boutique restaurant serving contemporary French cuisine in the heart of Old Town, in early October.
Gavroche, which translates to English as “mischievous child”, is the name of the main character from the revered Les Misérables, embodying the spirit of both the French Revolution and the vibrant energy of Old Town.
The kitchen at Gavroche is helmed by Executive Chef Mitchell Acuña, a classically French trained talent on the rise whose resume includes experience at the Michelin-starred BOKA, North Pond and Sixteen restaurants, among others. With a meticulous eye for detail and an insatiable quest for seeking and applying the finest ingredients in the world, his approach to French cuisine is decidedly current with modern interpretations of classics.
Highlights from Chef Acuña’s menu include the seemingly simple Charred French Radishes, served with salted butter, fennel pollen and warm demi baguette; Turbot Au Four Beurre Blanc, showcasing Polanco caviar and smoked crème fraîche beurre blanc; Gnocchi Parisian, with lemon black truffle cream, fine herbs, crispy garlic and bourbon barrel smoked trout roe; Koji Dry Aged Whole Poussin Rouge featuring summer black truffle, chanterelles, baby turnips, Yukon potato pave and black truffle jus; and my personal favorite the King Louis Royale, a luxurious wagyu brisket burger with raclette, pickled red onion, arugula, black truffle aioli, toasted brioche and served with beef fat pommes frites. We also enjoyed the appetizer special of Charred Leeks which was simple yet elegant.
King Louis Royale
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Foie Gras Duet |
Lavender Honey Poussin |
French Onion
Breads and desserts are by Pastry Chef Christine McCabe. Called a “creator of magic” by the Chicago Tribune, her impressive career includes stints at some of the world’s top restaurants, such as Joël Robuchon in Paris, Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago and Metropolitan in Salt Lake City. Her opera cake will put any tiramisu in Chicago to shame. Her French bread comes straight out of the oven to your table.
Nicoise
Gavroche offers a curated selection of boutique and reserve wines and classic cocktails. In addition, the restaurant’s cocktail program features five signature inventive selections crafted with rum, whiskey, vodka, gin and tequila. The restaurant also includes well-thought spirit-free selections, embracing teas, seasonal ingredients and – in tune with increasing consumer knowledge and interest – functional mushrooms and adaptogens.
Espresso Martini
Chan’s passion for creating an intimate and unforgettable dining experience is evident in every detail of Gavroche. The 1100-square-foot space features 32 seats total: Two corner seats at the intimate bar; four Chef’s Counter seats with a birds-eye view of the open kitchen; and 26 seats in the dining room. Guests will appreciate the extra detail of original art deco flatware and custom ceramic plates.
The sexy interior was designed to evoke the spirit of the past blending maximalism and mystery. Chan scoured the Midwest, sourcing vintage furnishings and fixtures from antique shops, estate sales, private clubs and auctions. Discover luxe mauve Italian mohair banquettes; palladium black granite self-leveling tables; a French armoire in wine red, and one of a kind bar stools – antiques. The space is further adorned with smoked mirrors and glittering leaded glass and copper patina terrarium chandeliers that lend glamour and charm. The ambiance is further enhanced by art deco inspired tin tile ceilings and a floor-to-ceiling garage door. “This is the place where James Bond would take his wife to dinner,” said Chan with a wink.
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“Gavroche is the sum total of my experiences,” he says. “At the end of the day, dining here is intended to bring us back to what is really important – celebrating life. This place champions the spirit of community, coming together around the table in friendship and love over a great bottle of wine and the best ratatouille and steak tartare you’ve ever tasted.”
Prime Tartare
Speaking of community because of its intimate space you are bound to see friends and other locals from the Gold Coast and Lincoln Park. While dining with fashionistas Stuart Dyer, Melissa McNally and Susu Block we were seated next to Gary Metzner from Sotheby’s and his art aficionado friends while Ted Brombach, investment banker about town, was dining at the bar.
Gavroche is located at 1529 N. Wells. The restaurant will be open from 4:30 to 11 p.m. six days per week; Gavroche is closed on Tuesdays. Seating is on a first-come basis. Reservations are available only for parties of four or more. They are not on any reservation systems. Please call (312) 898-8925 or email reservations@gavrochi.com for reservations. For more information, visit gavrochechi.com and follow at @gavrochechicago.
Bon appetit!
