By Jill Lowe
Unless of course one desires to be driven from Milan airport, but truly as advertised, the express train is comfortable and smart. No, not the Orient Express but more like other dedicated airport rail links – the Heathrow or Narita Express. Changing trains in Saronno for Como San Giovanni station is seamless, and as little as 36 minutes later, one arrives for a short exploration of Lake Como.
Many visitors have a favourite location to enjoy the time all in one spot – maybe a resort villa or special hotel. For those not as familiar with the lake, a base from which to explore is good and the city of Como offers this, as not only is it charming and very walkable, but there are many options of transport to explore the lake.
Established in the First Century by Julius Caesar, it is in the middle of Lombardy at the foot of the Italian alps. With plenty of restaurants, night life and shops along the cobbled streets, this walled city is enticing. Lovely walks along the lake give splendid views and one walkway right into the lake culminates in the 2015 Daniel Lieberskind futuristic sculpture Life and Electric.
Daniel Lierberskind “Life and Electric”
Around the lake
The cathedral – Duomo di Como, is a focal point of the city, having been built between 14th and 18th centuries, and can be seen well from the high point of the funicular.
Around the cathedral precinct
How to explore the lake
Although there are float planes, buses and car rental available, by far the most efficient way to explore is by boat – ferry, sailing boat, catamaran, speed boat cranchi 26, wooden water taxi, or more luxury private vessels.
In this focused area of Lake Como it is known that the left side of the lake is the most desirable having 2 available roads and having sun the year round. The right side of the area is still good but serviced by 1 road only, not close to the lake and many towns have zero sun for the winter months. Although the sun can be seen it does not shine in many towns. Not surprising then that the most well known villas and gardens are on the left side.
Plenty of guides are available to navigate and elaborate. But one does not need a guide to just be captivated by the sort of misty veiled light so prevalent on Lake Como.
The many many beautiful villas and towns skirting Lake Como are indeed breathtaking. Some are very well known because of ownership by celebrities or prominent people. Some are known as resorts and others known for incredible gardens. Almost no villa may be referred to as mere, even on the less desirable right side.
The Villa Pliniani deserves particular attention
Look at the 80 ft waterfall on the left of the villa and below see the spring emerging at the base of a villa.
Villa Pliniana was built in 1573 around the spring that carries the same name. The name “Pliniana” is inspired to the famous naturalists native of Como, Plinio the Elder and Plinio the Younger, whom, first described the spring and its peculiar intermittence in the first century A.D. Through time other distinguished scientists, including Leonardo Da Vinci (1452-1519) and Benedetto Giovio, studied the spring as well. It was this spring – even before the construction of the villa, that was known for its intermittency, thought to be due to a subterranean wind or, perhaps, flow and reflowing alternate in the source, like high and low tide in the sea. Meanwhile, it disappears and then rises at a regular timing, is plainly observed and under very delightful conditions.
The villa has had many iterations and renovations, but today the villa – now a hotel resort, incorporates the spring as it did when built. Descriptions of the spring are similar to those of Plinio the Younger who wrote of the intermittent karst (artesian) spring in a letter to his friend Lucius Licinius Sura. “There is a spring which rises in the mountain, and running among the rocks is received into a little banqueting-room, from whence, after being detained a short time, it falls into the lake.”
Leonardo Da Vinci had studied this spring, especially its ebb and flow, and was the inspiration for the eco-friendly ferry-boat – the Leonardo Ferry boat in Imbersago on the Adda River also in Lombardy. It takes its name from the man who is presumed to be its inventor : Leonardo Da Vinci, although there is no concrete evidence in this regard. It does not use motors, but takes advantage of the river current and the force produced by man for movement.
The Leonardo ferry boat
As if the connection to Villa Pliniani with Leonardo da Vinci was not enough, there is also connection with P.B. Shelley whose quote above says it all.
Villas with gardens
Of course many villas have gardens and many are indeed spectacular with various seasons to display rhododendrons and blossoms.
The two villa gardens mentioned here are quite well known and for good reason. The first one : Villa Balbianello is one of the must-visit gardens for a first time in Lake Como area, and is also popular to visit because of being a filming location of known movies.
The Villa Balbianello is on a promontory with the glorious views on three sides. Constant gardening and manicuring of trees and shrubs make this attractive for so many visitors…. including wedding parties.
The second villa with a magnificent garden, mentioned here is Villa Melzi d’Eril which was created as the summer residence of Francesco Melzi d’Eril, vice president of the Italian Republic founded by Napoleon in the early 1800s. Located in Bellagio, the long avenue of plane trees begins at the boat dock, and gardens of azaleas and gigantic rhododendrons surround the villa, enclosing small spaces such as the hidden cave or the artificial pond in Japanese style.
Villa Oleandra above – the 18c. villa of George and Amal Clooney. Villa La Cassinella below which is featured in the TV series Succession.
Sights around Lake Como
Isola Comacina is the only island on Lake Como
The towns are enticing to visit, wander, dine, shop and observe. None are disappointing.
Bellagio – above is extremely popular to visit as is Varenna below
More views around the lake follow
Back in the City of Como on Lungario Trieste at the lake side – the Ristorante Antica Darsena provides such a welcome view.
The Palazzo Albricci Peregrini, a small 8 room hotel within the walls of Como is located in a 15c. palazzo. A wonderful setting for a base to explore Lake Como.
Goodness me: the scenery of Lake Como is burned into our minds. How glorious!
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Photo of Jill by Joe Mazza, Bravelux inc.
Photos copyright © 2024 Jill Lowe. All rights reserved
Images from Shutterstock license
