By David A. F. Sweet
NICE – Visitors to Paris quickly find out the traffic rivals New York City. A trip to a museum a few kilometers away can take 30 minutes.
The views overlooking the sea by the former medieval castle were extraordinary.
So it was no surprise as we prepared to leave for our flight to Nice from Orly Airport the morning of June 5 that traffic would be aggravating. One problem: heads of state were descending on Paris for the next day’s D-Day celebrations. Major roads were closed, military members flashed machine guns – and we arrived at the airport as our flight was taking off.
The good news? Air France was accommodating to us (and many others) and, for a reasonable fee, we were on our way to the French Riviera a few hours later.
Blue Beach drew a crowd on a sunny day.
And what a welcome we had for our first dinner. Our Uber driver ferried us deep into the hills to La Chèvre D’Or, a two-Michelin star restaurant created out of a medieval castle with a stunning view of the Mediterranean Sea. Our seven-course meal began with crab from that same water, surrounded by incredibly fresh green beans, great-tasting yogurt — and I didn’t even mention the caviar on top! Grilled avocado followed, then octopus and the catch of the day. Amid all this, even the butter – infused with lemon, olive oil and basil – for our bread was sensational. And the crème brûlée – one of my favorite desserts – was the best I had ever tasted.
The next day, we drove 45 minutes to another country – Monaco. I took two of our children (the other was too young to enter the gambling area) into the famous Casino de Monte-Carlo. Don’t expect Circus-Circus of Las Vegas, brimming with trapeze artists overhead – you are essentially roaming a palace. That being said, the results were the same as any casino, as we dropped 50 Euros in 20 minutes playing roulette – our dreams of buying one of the large yachts in the harbor dashed.
The following afternoon, on an 80-degree day, we donned our swimsuits and headed to Blue Beach in downtown Nice. Waiters brought food and drinks to those ensconced on chaises-longue. After a short traverse across a rocky beach (water shoes are advisable), we jumped in. The water in the late spring was cool but bearable, and the waves were surprisingly powerful – once I was sprawled on the rocks as wave over wave pounded me, no doubt to the amusement of onlookers.
Nice is a great city to enjoy a stroll.
That evening was our final dinner – and it was as memorable as our first one in Nice. Housed in a stately white building downtown, which a waiter shared was the last independent 5-star hotel in France, Le Chantecler featured a décor created in the 18th century. A pianist
playing Alicia Keys, Simon & Garfunkel and other soft music set the mood. Bestowed with a Michelin star, the restaurant’s menu included a delicious wild bass and oysters entrée with tartar, lemon cream and caviar. And – no surprise in France – we were treated to amazing cheeses, including the chef’s special, Epoisses, and others.
A look toward the sky during outdoor drinks at Le Chantecler.
Despite the troublesome start, visiting the French Riviera was an enthralling venture – one hopefully to be repeated.
Unsung Gems columnist David A. F. Sweet can be reached at dafsweet@aol.com.
